The Rise of Biodynamic Farming in the ‘Green Heart of Italy’, Umbria.

‘Il Cuore Verde d’Italia’ — ‘The Green Heart of Italy’ — Umbria is where I was stationed for part of my year abroad. I took on a role as a personal translator for an American businesswoman who had acquired land in Umbria with the intention of developing a biodynamic farm.

At the time, there were government grants not only for female farmers but also for those pursuing organic or biodynamic practices.

We dove into Rudolf Steiner’s biodynamic lectures on soil preparation and became acquainted with the Maria Thun Biodynamic Calendar. This fascinating methodology incorporates every element that contributes to plant growth, intertwining astronomy with agriculture. Each of the four elements is attributed to different plant types, and planting follows the cycles of the moon. For example, seeds are sown on full moon days, when the moon’s gravitational pull draws water to the soil surface, creating optimal conditions for germination. Conversely, plants are pruned on new moon days, when water is pulled downward, leaving the soil drier and the plants easier to cut.

One of the most memorable Steiner-recommended practices is the Cow Horn Preparation, in which cow horns (from already deceased cows) are filled with manure, buried over winter, and harvested in spring to create a hyper-charged natural fertiliser. Since we did not yet have cows, we asked local farmers if we could gather manure from theirs—quite hilarious at the time, but absolutely fundamental to our operation. Hands-on, whacky, and incredibly rewarding!

As part of our research (we were complete newbies), I was recommended Fattoria La Vialla near Arezzo in Tuscany, a region that often steals the spotlight from Umbria among British tourists.

If you visit Umbria or Tuscany and appreciate the art of agriculture, enjoy farmstays, or simply love high-quality food, Fattoria La Vialla is an absolute must. Everything is organic and biodynamic: extra virgin olive oil, organic wines, cheeses, spreads, and more. Their Christmas hampers make perfect gifts.

Visitors can dine at the farm’s restaurant or take a free tour, where the ethos of the farm is explained, and you can explore the Frantoio (olive oil mill) and wine cellars, complete with a complimentary wine tasting.

If biodynamic farming interests you and you want to understand its practices, I highly recommend watching The Biggest Little Farm, a documentary about an American couple who built a biodynamic farm from scratch in California. For more in-depth knowledge, reading Rudolf Steiner’s lectures is also highly recommended.

P. S. If you want to get around like a local farmer, consider purchasing a Fiat Panda (ideally circa 2000) — one of the best cars for navigating the windy, hilly roads of central Italy. I went for turquoise!