An Artistic Masterpiece Hidden in the Central Hills of Sardinia

Nestled in the heart of Sardinia lies the village of Orani, Nuoro, home to around 3,000 people. I was fortunate to live here for three months while interning at the Museo Nivola, dedicated to the renowned local artist Costantino Nivola, whose career spanned the Atlantic and included works integrated into the architecture of institutions such as Yale University.

Nivola was a revolutionary and multifaceted maestro, mastering his own sand-casting technique, bronze and marble sculpting, traditional painting, and clay work. He even wrote poetry. My favourite piece is La Dea Madre, a life-sized marble sculpture in brilliant white, capturing the divine and pure embrace of a mother—fittingly named “The Divine Mother.”

The museum’s charm is not only in Nivola’s art but also in its architecture, which reflects the essence of Orani: a tightly knit community that prioritises family and connection. The museum’s temporary exhibitions are housed in the old lavatoio, where women once came to wash their family’s clothes. A stream runs through the gardens which is connected to a communal drinking well where locals are invited to collect their water from.

Supported by the Costantino Nivola Foundation, the museum continues the artist’s homage to his hometown. Orani holds him dear, with images of Nivola scattered throughout the village. The museum is not just a tribute to the artist but a living space where community and family remain central. Locals enjoy free entry, including access to events like the Here I Stay music festival. Staff also organise cultural activities, from children’s nature hunts to educational workshops.

One of my favourite workshops was hosted by Sardinian baker Francesco Pruneddu, who taught us to make a medieval rosewater cake. I highly recommend visiting his page (@ch_ecco) —not only to practice your Italian but also to explore traditional medieval patisserie recipes.